RSS Feed
okt 21

Giv mig nu bare elprisen.somjson.dk! (en historie om det måske værste datasæt i åbne energidata)

Posted on mandag, oktober 21, 2024 in Danish, Hal9k, Planets

Der findes rigtig meget åbent data om det danske energi system hos Energi Data Service, f.x. spot prisen på elektricitet og CO2 prognoser per kWh. Det er dog overordentligt svært at finde den samlede pris man betaler som forbruger per kWh, pga. det uigennemskuelige datasæt over tariffer og priser. I frustration kom udbruddet: “Giv mig nu bare elprisen.somjson.dk” der nemt summerer alle priser og afgiter per elselskab, er open source og uden yderligere dikke-darer.

Hvad koster strøm i Danmark?

For en forbruger i Danmark er strømprisen en sum af forskellige priser og afgifter, nogle faste, nogle dynamiske:

  • El-afgiften fastsat ved lov til 0,761 kr per kWh.
  • Energinet’s eltariffer: Nettarif på 0,074 kr per kWh (år 2024), og systemtarif på 0,051 kr per kWh (år 2024).
  • Netselskabstarif fra forsyningsselskabet (N1, Radius, etc.): denne varierer per time og per sæson for at forsøge at incentivere til at udligne forbruget så der ikke skal investeres i nye og større elkabler, og er indkodet i datasættet over tariffer og priser. Private forbrugere betaler C-tarif.
  • Spot-prisen: er den anden variable, og denne varierer ud fra udbud og efterspørgsel.
  • Moms: 25% lagt til summen af ovenstående

Dette er alle de uundgåelige priser og afgifter, der kan regnes ud udelukkende fra adressen. Derudover kommer så det “frie elmarked”, hvor der skal betales til et elselskab: typisk månedsabonnement og et tillæg til spot-prisen.

Tariffer og priser – det værste åbne datasæt?

Som om det ikke er uoverskueligt nok i sig selv, bliver vi nødt til at snakke om datasættet Datahub Price List. Der er flere åbenlyse problemer med det:

  • Der er flere felter man burde filtrere efter, men hvor der ikke findes en udtømmende liste over værdier, f.x. netselskab “ChargeOwner”. Det bedste man kan gøre er at downloade, hvor man så løber ind i at download kun giver 100.000 rækker – og datasættet er fuldt på over 300.000 rækker.
  • ChargeTypeCode er per selskab – og uden systematik. Så for hvert enkelt selskab skal man finde ud af hvilken priskode de bruger for C-tariffen. Og hvad når det ændrer sig?
  • ValidTo kan være udeladt og dermed et open ended interval, og prisen gælder så indtil data retroaktivt ændres. Det betyder også at man ikke kan filtrere på datoer, da prisen på 1. april kan være en række der har en ValidFrom 1. januar (eller tidligere).
  • Price1-24: dette er selve timetarif-priserne. Hvis en pris ikke er udfyldt gælder Price1 – hvorfor I alverden dog tilføje den ekstra kompleksitet!?!?!
  • For ikke at tale om tidszoner: man må antage (det er ikke dokumenteret) at alle datoer og timetal er angivet i hvad end tid der er gældende i Danmark på pågældende dato. Dette giver så problemer ved skift fra sommer-/normal-tid hvor en time gentages eller udelades: hvilken timesats bør bruges i et døgn der har 23 eller 25 timer?

Giv mig nu bare elprisen.somjson.dk!

Efter at have regnet de fleste af de ovenstående problemer ud, skrev jeg en API-proxy der udstiller det API man i virkeligheden vil have: givet en dato, og et elselskab (eller en adresse), returnerer den prisen time for time som et JSON dokument. Prisen er typisk tilgængelig fra kl. 13 dagen før. Som bonus får man også CO2 udledningen med, hvis den er tilgængelig (typisk kl. 15 dagen før). Det er implementeret som en ren API proxy, dvs. det er ren omskrivning af input og data og ikke andet.

Det hele er open source, men der kører en version på elprisen.somjson.dk som frit kan benyttes.

Alternativer

Der findes andre API’er der opfylder forskellige use-cases:

  • Min Strøm API er rigtig modent og har egen forecast model der kan forecaste 7 dage frem, før priserne er låst på Energi Data Service. Kræver en API nøgle og er uden kildekode
  • HomeAssistant energidataservice virker kun med Home Assistant, men fungerer på samme måde mod Energi Data Service.
  • Strømligning API kan bruges til at udregne priser baseret på historisk forbrugsdata. Kan dog også bruges til at hente de forecastede priser. Med rate limiting, og uden kildekode.
  • Carnot har også et åbent API og egen forecast model. Kræver API nøgle, og er uden kildekode.
  • Billigkwh.dk har et åbent API til elpriser der også inkluderer de forskellige elselskabers abonnement.
okt 9

World’s Longest Multi-Cutter Blade: 30 cm

Posted on onsdag, oktober 9, 2024 in Hal9k, Planets, Woodworking

I had a need for an extra-extra long multi-cutter blade, so we made one in Hal9k. Until proven otherwise, we hereby claim it to be the world’s longest, at about 30 cm from rotation point to the cutting edge.

Converting Starlock-MAX to Starlock-Plus

Initially I thought I could get away with just a 80mm long Bosch MAIZ 32 APB which seems to be the longest commercially available. First problem was that my multi-cutter was only “Starklock-Plus” and this blade is Starlock-MAX. Turns out, you can easily get around that: just drill up the hole to 10mm, and it fits like a glove, at least on the Starklock-Plus Bosch GOP 18V-28.

Drilling Starlock-MAX to 10mm makes it a Starlock-Plus.

World record time

But as it turns out, I needed more length, and anything worth doing is worth overkilling! So sacrificing an old worn-out blade by welding on some 2mm steel plate provided a good base that would still attach to the multi-cutter.

First attempt was just attaching the blade with two 2mm screws, as these are the largest that will fit in the star’s spikes and thereby prevent rotation. Initial testing:

So next solution was to beef up with a central 8mm bolt instead.

This worked much better if torqued enough (read: all you possibly can!), test-run went great after the initial oscillations:

And ultimately the cut in the tight corner was made, one-handedly in order to be able to film:

Great success!
This should not be considered safe, and several warranties were probably voided, but it got the job done.

feb 15

Reparation af Nordlux IP S12 badeværelseslampe der ikke lyser længere

Posted on torsdag, februar 15, 2024 in Danish, Hal9k, Planets

Denne badeværelseslampe er udgået af produktion, og pga. monteringen og at man ofte har mere end én er det noget træls at skulle udskifte – det giver ihvertfald en del skrot uden grund. Heldigvis er konstruktionen super simpel: det er udelukkende en LED driver (230V AC til 24V DC) og en LED.

Lad os starte med det nemme: LED-driveren er direkte tilgængelig bagfra, og med lidt forsigtighed kan spændingen udmåles. I dette tilfælde var der ca. 24V DC, og det er jo fint indenfor specifikationen.

Selve LED’en er lidt sværere at komme til: fronten af glasset skal drejes af via de to huller deri. Jeg brugte en låseringstang af ca. korrekt dimension, med lidt forsigtighed. Lidt ridser gør nok ikke det store når lyset skinner. LED’en kan nu loddes af.

En ny LED kan købes for ca. 10 kr, f.x. på AliExpress. Det rigtige søgterm er måske “Bridgelux 2020 COB LED”, jeg endte med en 7W i Warm White (3000 Kelvin).

Efter lidt fidlen og lodden er den nye LED monteret, og kan testes. Stor succes!

okt 28

Fantus-button part 2: the physical button build and the network communication

Posted on lørdag, oktober 28, 2023 in Hal9k, Planets

First part of this series is here, covering the reverse engineering of the DRTV Chromecast App.

I wanted the physical appearance to be extremely minimalistic, with slight references to various cubes from videogames. Because it is a remote control, it of course has to be wireless and battery-powered.

The box is lasercut from 6 mm MDF, and with a giant red arcade button on top with a red LED inside.

The electronics inside is a battery-powered Wemos D1, along with 4 x 18650 Lithium battery cells. After some experimentation on the response time, which is primarily dominated by the time it takes to reconnect to the WiFi network, I initially only used “light sleep”. This resulted in a battery time of just over a week, which is okay, but not great.

In order to preserve battery deep sleep would be really nice. The problem is deep sleep on the Wemos can only be interrupted by a reset. The idea was to use a MOSFET (in this case an N-channel logic level mosfet, IRFZ44N) for the Wemos to be able to select whether a press of the button should reset it, or it should just register on a pin as normal.

This circuit allows RST to be pulled low by the button, as long as D0 is high. Luckily, D0 is high during deep sleep, so as long as the Arduino code keeps D0 low button presses will not reset — but can still be registered by reading pin D1.

This works out “responsively enough” because the initial start has some delay due to the Chromecast initializing the app and loading media. Any subsequent button presses within the 30 seconds the Arduino stays awake are instant though. With this setup the battery life is not a problem – I’ve only had to charge it once. As a bonus feature/bug whenever the battery gets low the Wemos will trigger a bit sporadically: this causes “Fantus-bombing” where Fantus will just randomly start; quite quickly thereafter the Fantus-button is being charged 😉

The Wemos itself is not powerful enough to do all the pyChromecast communication needed, so I setup a small Raspberry Pi to handle that part. Since I didn’t want to spend too much time and effort setting up the communication between them, I ended up using a trick from my youth: UDP broadcasting. Because UDP is datagram-oriented you can send a UDP packet to the broadcast address (255.255.255.255) and then it will be received by all hosts on the local area network: no configuration needed. In Arduino code it looks like:

  Udp.begin(31337);
Udp.beginPacket("255.255.255.255", 31337);
Udp.write("emergency-button\n");
Udp.endPacket();

(Full Arduino code available here.)

At this point I had a UDP packet that I could receive on the Raspberry Pi, and it was just a matter of writing a small server program to listen, receive and process those UDP commands. However, at this point a thought entered my mind, that derailed the project for a while:

netcat | bash

Why write my own server to parse and execute commands, when Bash is already fully capable of doing exactly that with more flexibility than I could ever dream of? And netcat is perfectly capable of receiving UDP packets? This is a UNIX system, after all, and UNIX is all about combining simple commands in pipelines — each doing one thing well.

The diabolical simplicity of just executing commands directly from the network was a bit too insecure though. This is where Bash Restricted mode enters the project: I wouldn’t rely on it for high security (since it is trying to “enumerate badness“), but by locking down the PATH of commands that are allowed to execute it should be relatively safe from most of the common bypass techniques:

netcat -u -k -l 31337 | PATH=./handlers/ /bin/bash -r

The project was now fully working: press the button, Fantus starts. Press it while Fantus is playing: Fantus pauses. Press it while Fantus is paused: Fantus resumes. The little human was delighted about his new powers over the world, and pressed the button to his hearts content (and his parents slight annoyance at times).

(Full code for handler available here.)

But wouldn’t it be cool if the little human had a (limited) choice in what to view?…

jul 18

Fantus-button part 1: Reverse engineering the DRTV Chromecast App

Posted on tirsdag, juli 18, 2023 in Hal9k, Planets

I want to build a physical giant red button, that when pressed instantly starts a children’s TV-show, in my case Fantus on DRTV using a Chromecast.

The first part of the build is figuring out how to remotely start a specific video on a Chromecast. Initially I thought this would be pretty simple to do from an Arduino, because back in the day you could start a video just using a HTTP request. Very much not so anymore: the Chromecast protocol has evolved into some monster using JSON inside Protobuf over TLS/TCP, with multicast DNS for discovery. Chance of getting that working on a microcontroller is near-zero.

But remote control is possible using e.g. pychromecast which has support for not only the usual app of YouTube, but also a couple of custom ones like BBC. Let’s try and add support for DRTV to pychromecast, starting at the hints given on adding a new app.

Using the netlog-viewer to decode the captured net-export from Chrome, and looking at the unencrypted socket communication, the appId of the DRTV app is easily found.

However, one of the subsequent commands has a lot more customData than I expected, since it should more or less just be the contentId that is needed:

{
  "items": [
    {
      "autoplay": true,
      "customData": {
        "accountToken": {
          "expirationDate": "2022-07-02T00:48:35.391Z",
          "geoLocation": "dk",
          "isCountryVerified": false,
          "isDeviceAbroad": false,
          "isFallbackToken": false,
          "isOptedOut": false,
          "profileId": "c4e0...f3e",
          "refreshable": true,
          "scope": "Catalog",
          "type": "UserAccount",
          "value": "eyJ0eX...Dh8kXg"
        },
        "chainPlayCountdown": 10,
        "profileToken": {
          "expirationDate": "2022-07-02T00:48:35.389Z",
          "geoLocation": "dk",
          "isCountryVerified": false,
          "isDeviceAbroad": false,
          "isFallbackToken": false,
          "isOptedOut": false,
          "profileId": "c4e0a...f3e",
          "refreshable": true,
          "scope": "Catalog",
          "type": "UserProfile",
          "value": "eyJ0eXAi...IkWOU5TA"
        },
        "senderAppVersion": "2.211.33",
        "senderDeviceType": "web_browser",
        "sessionId": "cd84eb44-bce0-495b-ab6a-41ef125b945d",
        "showDebugOverlay": false,
        "userId": ""
      },
      "media": {
        "contentId": "278091",
        "contentType": "video/hls",
        "customData": {
          "accessService": "StandardVideo"
        },
        "streamType": "BUFFERED"
      },
      "preloadTime": 0,
      "startTime": 0
    }
  ],
  "repeatMode": "REPEAT_OFF",
  "requestId": 202,
  "sessionId": "81bdf716-f28a-485b-8dc3-ac4881346f79",
  "startIndex": 0,
  "type": "QUEUE_LOAD"
}

Here I spent a long time trying without any customData, and just using the appId and contentId. Initially it seemed to work!

However, it turned out it only worked if the DRTV Chromecast app was already launched from another device. If launched directly from pychromecast the app would load, show a spinner, and then go back to idle. Here much frustration was spent; I guess the customData is actually needed. And indeed, putting that in works! But where do these tokens come from, and how do we get those tokens from Python?

Using Chrome’s developer tools (F12) on the DRTV page, and then searching globally (CTRL-SHIFT-f) for various terms (“expirationDate”, “customData”, “profileToken”, “accountToken” etc.) revealed some interesting code, that was as semi-readable as any pretty-printed minifyed Javascript. Eventually I found the tokens in local storage:

Using these tokens work really well, and allows starting playback!

Some further exploration proceeded: using the showDebugOverlay flag reveals that the DRTV player is just a rebranded Shaka Player. The autoplay functionality can be disabled by setting chainPlayCountdown to -1, which is honestly a real oversight that it cannot be disabled officially, to not have to rush to stop the playback of the item before the next autoplays.

With all the puzzle pieces ready, I prepared a pull request (still open) to add support for DRTV to pychromecast.

Fantus-button part 2 will follow, detailing the hardware build and network integration with the support from pychromecast.

feb 20

Floating Solid Wood Alcove Shelves

Posted on mandag, februar 20, 2023 in Hal9k, Planets, Woodworking

I have an alcove where I wanted to put in some floating shelves. I wanted to use some solid wood I had lying around, to match the rest of the interior; this ruled out most of the methods described online: (i) building up the shelf around a bracket, and (ii) using hidden mounting hardware would be hard to get precise and would not provide support on the sides.

So inspired by some of the options instead I tried to get by with just brackets on the three sides, in a solid wood shelf. I ended up with 12mm brackets of plywood in a 26mm solid wood shelf, and that was plenty sturdy.

Step 1 was to cut out the rough shelves, with plenty of extra width, and rough fitting the plywood bracket pieces. It makes sense to leave as much on the top of the slit as possible, as this will be the failure point if overloaded. The excellent wood workshop at Hal9k came in very handy!

Step 2 was to mount the plywood brackets in the alcove. Pretty easy to do using a laser level, biggest problem was getting the rawplugs in precise enough for the level to be kept.

Step 3 was fitting the shelves individually, accounting for the crookedness of the 3 walls. The scribing method used by Rag’n’Bone Brown was pretty useful, just doing it in multiple steps to make sure not to cut off too much.

Finally, all the shelves in final mounting. Getting them in took a bit of persuasion with a hammer, and minor adjustments with a knife to the plywood brackets, as it was a tight fit. The key again was small adjustments.

One concern with such a tight fit would be wood movement; however most of the wood movement is “across the grain” which in this application means “in and out” from the alcove, where the wood is basically free to move as the shelves are not fastened to the brackets in any way.

Another concern would be if the relatively small brackets (12x12mm) can handle the load of the relatively wide shelves (60cm wide, 35cm deep, and 2.6cm high). There are two failure scenarios: (i) the wood could split above the slit, (ii) or the bracket could deform or be pulled out. Neither seems likely as (i) applying a static (or even dynamic) load large enough to split the wood seems implausible, even at the weakest point in the middle of the front, and (ii) the tight fit counteracts the brackets ability to be pulled out since pulling out in one side would have the shelf hitting the wall on the opposite side.

All in all a very satisfying project to work on and complete!

dec 15

Quick and dirty guide to Lithium battery-powered Wemos D1 Mini

Posted on torsdag, december 15, 2022 in Hal9k

The Wemos D1 Mini is an ESP8266 based prototyping board with WiFi connectivity and countless applications. It becomes even more useful in battery-powered applications, where with the proper setup, it can run low-powered for months at a time — or only hours if done incorrectly.

This is the quick and dirty guide to running a Wemos D1 Mini powered by Lithium-Ion batteries: We will be blatantly ignoring several design specifications, so double check everything before using in a critical project. Several things will vary, and since there is plenty of clones of the board some boards will work better than others.

Warning: Lithium-Ion batteries always command healthy respect, due to the energy they store! Do not use bad cells, and do not leave batteries unattended in places where a fire can develop, especially while charging. That being said, the setup given here should be as safe as most other Lithium-Ion battery projects.

Why run off a battery?

You chose a Wemos D1 because you want to do some WiFi connectivity. This narrows down the useful modes from the overwhelming large table of possibilities. The approach will be slightly different depending on why you want to run off a battery. There are 3 main usecases:

  • Periodically wake up on a timer, do some work, connect to WiFi, and go back to sleep. Here we can utilize the deep sleep mode of the ESP8266, and get lifetimes in months.
  • Wake up based on an external pin trigger, do some work, connect to WiFi, and go back to sleep. Here we can also utilize deep sleep, and get lifetimes in weeks/months.
  • React with low latency to an external pin, do some work, and go to sleep while still connected to WiFi. Here we can utilize light sleep, but only get lifetimes in hours/days.

Hardware setup

The hardware needed is:

  • Wemos D1 Mini
  • TP4056 module with “discharge protection”, most modules with more than one chip has this, but be careful!
  • Lithium-Ion battery, e.g. a 18650 cell, and probably a holder for the battery

What you don’t want is anything resembling a power bank or battery shield with a regulated output (5V or 3V). These are practically useless, simply a more expensive battery holder! Two reasons: poorly built (I have several where standby is prevented by pulling 100 mA through a resistor!), and you don’t want a switching mode power supply. The keyword here is “quiescent current”: an SMPS can easily consume 5-10 mA continuously, which could very likely be the majority of the current draw.

Wiring diagram.

Waking on a timer – deep sleep

Full code example for deep sleeping on a timer.

To start deep sleep for a specified period of time:

//Sleep for some time; when waking everything will be reset and setup() will run again
ESP.deepSleep(30 * MICROSECONDS_PER_SEC);

Note that you can’t safely sleep for more than approximately 3 hours. Power usage is approx 0.3–0.4mA when deep sleeping.

Keep in mind that after waking from the timer the chip will be reset, meaning no state is available, and WiFi will have to reconnect. Reconnecting to WiFi can be anything from 3–10 seconds or even longer, meaning that will be a delay before the program can resume.

Waking on an pin trigger (reset)

Full code example for deep sleeping waiting for a pin trigger.

The code is exactly the same as waking on a timer, with one exception:

//Sleep until RESET pin is triggered
ESP.deepSleep(0);

The chip will be effectively comatose, sleeping until a RESET is triggered. Same caveats apply: waking up the program is restarted, and reconnecting to WiFi will be a delay.

Stay connected – low latency

Full code example for light sleeping connected to WiFi waiting for a pin trigger. Note that the button should be connected to D3 for this example, not RST.

The key parts are:

void setup() {
  ...
  WiFi.setSleepMode(WIFI_LIGHT_SLEEP, 3);  // Automatic Light Sleep
}

void loop() {
  ...
  delay(350); // Any value between 100--500 will work, higher value more power savings
    // but also slower wakeup!
}

Simply delaying will bring power savings — simple and easy!

When awake power consumption is around 75mA. Average power consumption when light sleeping with delay(200) is around 45 mA, with delay(350) and larger is around 30–40mA.

Measuring battery depletion

The ESP can measure it’s internal VCC supply voltage, and because the battery will start dropping below the rated 3.3V before it is depleted, this allows to get an warning when the battery starts to deplete.

ADC_MODE(ADC_VCC);

void loop() {
  if (ESP.getVcc() < 2800) {
    //Do something to warn of low battery
  }
}

In my experience the Vcc reading will drop below 2800 when the battery starts to be depleted.

ADC readings vs. battery voltage

Note that measuring the VCC while connected with USB is not possible, as the USB connection will pull up the battery and the 5V rail to 5V!

Calculating battery life

Here is a quick calculator for how long your Wemos D1 Mini can stay powered




Deep sleep


(conservatively assumes base load 1mA, 10 secs burst of 100mA for every wakeup), resulting in

Light sleep


Of course the consumption can be brought even lower: some chips are unused but partly connected and will have some leakage (LEDs, USB chip on the Wemos). Making it even leaner is outside the scope of quick and dirty.

okt 4

Olimex A20-OLinuXino-LIME2 – 8 years in service, 2 PSUs and 1 SD-card down

Posted on tirsdag, oktober 4, 2022 in Hal9k, Planets, Sysadmin'ing

4 years ago I posted a 4 year review of the Olimex LIME2. It seems that the lifetime of power supplies is approximately 4 years as now another power supply died, and this time also the SD-card was expiring. The LIME2 lives on however!

It was a bit hard to notice, because the battery pack of the LIME2 kept it running pretty well even with the poor power supply. So, better monitoring of the battery pack is also on the todo list.

Recovering the bad SD-card

Recovering the SD-card was relatively easy with minimal dataloss, when out of the LIME2:

$ sudo ddrescue /dev/mmcblk0 backup.img
# Put in a new SD-card
$ sudo dd if=backup.img of=/dev/mmcblk0 bs=16M

I have done this a couple of times with other SD-cards from Raspberry PIs, and though there is the potential for dataloss it is usually minimal. This time a few blocks were lost.

Upgrading Debian from Stretch to Bullseye

I took the opportunity to upgrade the Debian install while the system was offline anyway. Upgrading was generally painless, following the usual Debian method. I went through the Buster release just to be sure:

$ vim /etc/apt/sources.list
# replace all "stretch" with "buster" :%s/stretch/buster
$ apt update && apt upgrade && apt full-upgrade
$ reboot

$ vim /etc/apt/sources.list
# replace all "buster" with "bullseye" :%s/buster/bullseye
$ apt update && apt upgrade && apt full-upgrade
$ reboot

The only tricky part is booting the new kernel. Since that always fails for me on the first try, I always hookup the serial console. For future reference, this is how to hookup the serial console (which is TTL 3.3V):

Pinout from left as labelled on the LIME2: TX, RX, GND

Now, of course the boot failed. I tried getting the flash-kernel package to work for my setup, but for historical reasons I have a separate boot partition. In the end I derived a simple bootscript from that package, that boots from p1 but loads the kernel, fdt and initrd from p2:

setenv bootargs  ${bootargs} console=ttyS0,115200 root=/dev/mmcblk0p2 rootwait panic=10

#setenv fk_kvers '4.19.0-21-armmp-lpae'
setenv fk_kvers '5.10.0-18-armmp-lpae'
setenv fdtpath dtb-${fk_kvers}

load mmc 0:2 ${kernel_addr_r} /boot/vmlinuz-${fk_kvers}
load mmc 0:2 ${fdt_addr_r} /boot/${fdtpath}
load mmc 0:2 ${ramdisk_addr_r} /boot/initrd.img-${fk_kvers}
bootz ${kernel_addr_r} ${ramdisk_addr_r}:${filesize} ${fdt_addr_r}

The script can be manually input over the serial terminal, and thereby tested out.

The only downside is it needs to be manually updated after each kernel upgrade. To activate the uboot bootscript:

$ mount /dev/mmcblk0p1 /mnt/
$ cd /mnt
# ensure boot.cmd is as above
$ mkimage -C none -A arm -T script -d boot.cmd boot.scr

Monitoring the LIME2 battery pack

After upgrading to a recent 5.X mainline Linux kernel the battery pack is exposed in the sysfs filesystem:

$ cat /sys/class/power_supply/axp20x-battery/voltage_now 
4070000 # 4.07 V
$ cat /sys/class/power_supply/axp20x-ac/voltage_now 
4933000 # 4.93 V

I setup a couple of alerting rules for these in my home monitoring setup, so hopefully the next time the LIME2 defeats a power supply I’ll get notified.

Conclusion

I can still warmly recommend the LIME2. It is still available, and even a bit cheaper nowadays at 40 EUR + VAT, and still a little workhorse that just keeps on going.

aug 29

Grundfos Alpha 2 pumpe går i stykker og flimrer: reparer den med en kondensator til nogle få kr

Posted on mandag, august 29, 2022 in Danish, Hal9k, Planets

Som med så mange andre huse fulgte der en Grundfos Alpha 2 cirkulationspumpe med da vi købte et hus. Den pumpede og pumpede, indtil den var blevet 13 år gammel: så begyndte den at flimre når den skulle starte op. Det er jo som sådan en rimelig hæderlig levetid, men også lidt mistænkeligt at det ikke virkede til at være et mekanisk problem.

Flimmer, men ingen pumpning.

Symptomerne er:

  • Pumpen kan køre fint i længere tid
  • Ved længere tids stop kan den ikke starte; nogen gange starter den efter noget tid
  • Ved opvarmning starter pumpen, f.x. med en varmepistol

Det sidste punkt har gjort at der flere steder bliver spekuleret i at der er “kondens” i pumpen.

Det er dog ikke problemet. Problemet er en lille kondensator der holder strøm til lavspændingselektronikken:

47 uF 16 V kondensatoren er problemet.

I Hal9k eksperimenterede vi en smule for at verificere: hvis man køler den ned med f.x. sprit opstår problemet med det samme. Hvis man varmer den op starter pumpen med det samme.

For en udførlig vejledning i hvordan pumpen skilles ad og kondensatoren skiftes har Simon lavet en video:

Men hvad er kilden til problemet så? Kondensatoren får over tid en alt for stor indre modstand, og spændingstabet bliver for stort. Her et par målinger uden og med lidt sprit til ekstra afkøling:

En helt ny kondensator måler under 1 ohms modstand, altså 100 gange så lille indre modstand:

En ny kondensator kan findes ved at søge på “47 uf 16 v smd electrolytic capacitor”, f.x. TME.eu, eller endnu mere lokalt fra el-supply.dk.

Efter erstatning pumper pumpen lystigt.

Så hvad kan man lære af hele denne historie?
Grundfos laver mekanisk gode pumper, men sparer på deres elektronik. Det er trist at tænke på hvor mange pumper der mon er smidt ud lang tid før tid. Man kan nok ikke beskylde Grundfos for “planned obsolence” efter 13 år, men man kunne dog ønske at produktet fejlede i en mere brugbar konfiguration: f.x. at pumpen kører ved et minimum hvis elektronikken fejler.

jan 31

Reparation af Aduro-tronic II

Posted on søndag, januar 31, 2021 in Danish, Hal9k

Vi har en Aduro 1-2 brændeovn med Aduro-tronic, som vi generelt er rigtig glade for. Den har nu været i drift i 5 år, og har haft omkring 4500 optændinger. Generelt er designet rigtig fornuftigt, og med Aduro-tronic og Smart Response er det rigtig nemt at fyre korrekt.

Den eneste anke må være at vi nu 2 gange har oplevet at Aduro-tronic stemplet har givet op:

Første gang købte jeg et nyt, men det viste sig at være ret nemt at reparere. Så da problemet opstod igen reparerede jeg bare det gamle stempel.

Aduro-tronic er basalt set en utæt luftcylinder med en fjeder. Stemplet trykkes ind, fjederen bliver spændt og som lufter langsomt trækker ud af cylinderen kører stemplet op igen. Hvor utæt cylinderen er justeres med den lille skrue, og dette sætter således tiden spjældet holdes åbent.

Problemet opstår når aske, støv og lignende sætter sig inde i cylinderen, og over tid får foringen til at blive utæt. Derved er stemplet for utæt.

Løsningen er simpel:

Tag forsigtigt fjederen af ved at trykke holderpladen ned og dreje den 90 grader.
Den øverste plade kan forsigtig tages ud. Jeg brugte en spidstang, og lidt vrikken fra side til side. Derefter kan selve stemplet med gummi-foring tages ud.

Rengør nu cylinderen, og smør stempel og cylinder med en lille smule silikone-spray der hjælper med at forsegle.

Saml hele mekanikken igen, tryk stemplet ned og check at det nu bliver nede af sig selv. Når mekanikken igen er monteret på brændeovnen skal tiden nok indstilles forfra.